Category Archives: Traveller Review

 

When I chatted with a colleague recently about my adventure on the all-new Swan Hellenic cruise line, he replied with an air of disdain. “Aren’t they just floating retirement homes?”

If we’d been having this discussion 20 years ago, then maybe. Swan Hellenic has been around as a brand for 70 years, beginning in the UK as a niche excursion travel company for history buffs. It was bought by P&O UK in the ‘80s and subsumed into the massive Carnival cruising conglomerate in the 2000s, but dissolved by the huge US cruise giant before the decade was out.

Ten years further along, revival attempts were mounted by All Leisure Holidays Group and G Adventures, but these also came to nought. 

 

 

In 2020, a new revival began, spearheaded by industry stalwart, Monaco-based Italian citizen Andrea Zito. Despite the unfortunate timing, three brand new Polar Class (PC) ships were ordered and ultimately delivered to the new-look cruise line, beginning in late 2021 with the 152-guest SH Minerva. SH Vega and SH Diana followed in 2022 and 2023.

So, to counter my colleague's objections, I was confidently able to enlighten him about the complete transformation of this brand from palliative to opulent.

 

The Ship: SH Diana

 

My debut experience with Swan Hellenic was aboard the newest of the triplets, SH Diana. This sparkling vessel expands the original ‘Project Vega’ 152-guest design to accommodate 192 lucky passengers. 

Her restrained colour schemes are natural and soothing with generous use of wood and fabrics. Tillberg Design of Sweden, who have more than 60 years of experience in this sector, can take much of the credit for the crisp and airy interiors designed to “reflect the ship’s natural surrounds.”

I was spoiled by my 25sqm Balcony stateroom. Every cabin, right down to the 20sqm Oceanview ones, has a bottle of Champagne in the bar fridge, pre-stocked with complimentary snacks, soft drinks and beer. While basic WiFi is free, it's limited to text unless you upgrade at extra cost. There's a personal safe and a pair of Nikon Prostaff 3S 10x42 binoculars too. Amenities include a smart HDTV with movies and tour and ship information, individually controlled air conditioning, an Illy Espresso coffee machine with pods, a kettle and Kusmi tea bags, towels for the cabin, pool, and gym, a bathrobe, bedroom slippers, and toiletries by Lajatica.

 

 

Dining is either in the lavish Swan Restaurant on Deck 4, outside in the sunny Pool Bar & Grill or in the casual Club Lounge on Deck 7 where you can enjoy lighter meals and snacks as well as 24-hour hot beverages and cookies. 

The Observation Lounge, also on Deck 7, is effectively the community hub of the vessel, where the bar and projector screen are located and where the daily briefings and lectures will take place. I particularly like the placement of retractable screens around the space so you don't have to scrum it up the front to see or hear the information. A new feature of this Vega-class vessel is the separate card room adjacent to the Observation Lounge.

 

 

If you want to spruce up for the Captain's Cocktails, there is a salon and spa up on Deck 8 where you can also find the two saunas. Something you don’t find on every expedition vessel is the passenger laundry which you can use instead of the extra-cost valet laundry. And, yes I did.

For those who’ve been aboard expedition vessels in the past, the Zodiac operations will be familiar. On Deck 3 is the ‘Base Camp’ where you will muster and be led onto your tender through a side door and single step. There is no rickety gangway or seaswept platform to worry about.  

 

The Itinerary: Paradise Isles of the Indian Ocean

 

My itinerary is the most unusual 10-night ‘Paradise Isles of the Indian Ocean’ which began in the Seychelles capital of Victoria and proceeded through various remote islands including the UNESCO-listed Aldabra, home to more than 150,000 giant tortoises. The last few days we spent exploring the ancient East African trading ports of Zanzibar, Lamu and Mombasa.

Apart from the included and optional shore excursions, there was more than plenty of beach time and water frolics with snorkelling and Stand-Up/Fall-Down paddle boards. We embarked on several Zodiac excursions, mainly to look at the many seabirds, but also managed to spot dolphins and sea turtles along the way. I’m told there are a few dugongs in the huge lagoon at Aldabra, but the elusive creatures haven’t been seen in months.

 

 

These tropical itineraries take place in between polar seasons when there are a few weeks available to reposition the ships from one end of the world to the other. This is where Swan Hellenic come to the fore with voyages that truly reflect their tagline “See what others don't”.

These ‘in-between’ itineraries are no afterthought either. Imagine in-depth explorations of the African coasts, both east and west as well as Central and South America. For committed country-counters, there is even a voyage to Tristan da Cunha. Yes, look that up.

So, in summary, not only are you enjoying a most comfortable ‘cruise’ experience with all the niceties of a boutique luxury vessel, but all the capabilities of a true expedition ship able to access the remote, seldom-visited locations that make any journey aboard Swan Hellenic a true exploration.

 

To book your Swan Hellenic small ship cruise contact the expert team at Expedition Cruise Specialists today via email or call 1800 80 20 90 within Australia.

 

Roderick Eime is Australia’s leading expedition cruising photojournalist and he travelled on this cruise courtesy of Swan Hellenic. You can follow his exploits at www.expeditioncruising.com

 

 

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Tony and I were lucky enough to join Lindblad Expeditions in August to cruise Alaska’s Glacier Bay National Park aboard one of their expedition ships, the National Geographic Sea Bird. We had wanted to explore this part of the world for many years, and it’s fair to say that Alaska didn’t disappoint. Here’s our review of the trip.

 

The Itinerary

We chose the seven night Exploring Alaska's Coastal Wilderness expedition between Juneau and Sitka, both relatively easy small cities to reach. Highlights of the expedition included exploring Glacier Bay National Park, a visit to historic Petersburg and lots of wildlife encounters. There were excursions each day, and regular walks ashore (moderate difficulty). We also loved the opportunity to jump in the kayaks (they have both single and double) to paddle out from the ship amongst the glaciers. Happily for us we encountered lots of wildlife, from feeding brown bears to playful whales and that most iconic American symbol, the Bald Eagle. You can view a map of our voyage below.

 

 

You don’t need to be super fit to join the expedition, anyone with a general level of mobility will be able to get a lot out of the trip. There were some longer walks (optional) that do require a bit of stamina if you are inclined to join them.

Although we travelled in August - the peak of the North American summer - being so far north it was of course still quite cool. When packing for this voyage always think about layers. On some of the walks ashore the sun did manage to peek out and having the ability to peel off a layer or two was a godsend.

Being seven nights long the itinerary was an ideal length for us as it was part of an extended trip in the US. If you’re after a longer expedition however, Lindblad Expeditions do offer a 15 day adventure between Sitka and Seattle, which includes Haida Gwaii.

 

The Ship: National Geographic Sea Bird

Lindblad Expeditions currently operate two sister-ships on their seven night Alaska programmes, Sea Bird and Sea Lion. Tony and I travelled aboard Sea Bird. Launched in 1982, she carries 62 guests (plus 25 crew) and at just 50 metres in length she is small enough to access all the coves and tributaries you want to explore on a cruise like this. Indeed the ships are small enough to pull close to shore to allow guests to see brown bears feasting on a kill, an encounter we were lucky enough to experience.

 

 

While not state-of-the-art, both Sea Bird and Sea Lion are hardy little ships with a lot of charm, and once you’re settled in you will realise they have everything you need for a successful expedition, including a fleet of zodiacs and a number of single and double kayaks. Recent refurbishments have brought the ships up to date somewhat, but you do need to moderate your expectations; these ships were built as true expedition ships over 30 years ago and don’t have all the bells and whistles you are likely to find on new ships today. Having said that, we thought the ship was very comfortable and was well suited to the itinerary. There was a pleasant dining room and other spaces to gather with fellow travellers to check out the stunning views whilst underway. For those seeking a little pampering there is also a small spa / beauty salon.

 

 

Both Sea Bird and Sea Lion continue to operate Alaskan cruises, while two newer ships the National Geographic Quest and National Geographic Venture also operate similar itineraries. Slightly larger than the existing ships, these new vessels accommodate up to 100 guests.

 

The Cabin:  Category 2

Our first thought once being shown to our cabin for the week was “wow, it’s compact!”.  At around 8 to 9 square metres (about 100 square feet) there’s not a great deal of space, but once you’ve unpacked, put the suitcases under the bed and settled in you will find there’s more than enough room to relax. Our cabin, which was designated Category 2, had two single beds, as is the case in most of the cabins on these ships, and they are laid out in a ‘L-shape’ fashion.

 

 

All rooms open directly on to the deck, and with a large window you’ll always be reminded that you’re in Alaska by the wonderful views right outside. For added privacy there are curtains on all windows. Other amenities include temperature control and also WiFi access, which does incur a small additional cost.

Of course each cabin has its own smallish en suite, with toiletries including shampoo and bodywash replenished daily. The rooms are serviced daily by the unobtrusive crew with towels regularly changed.

Slightly larger Category 3 cabins also offer the option of a Double bed.

 

 

The Dining

Dining during the cruise was hearty and plentiful. Breakfast and lunch were served as buffets in the dining room, whilst dinner was offered as table service from a small a la carte menu. Outside of meal times there is always something to nibble on if you’re a bit peckish. Each night Tony and I marvelled at the massive platters of cheese and local Dungeness crab served during pre-dinner drinks, we had to be very restrained to ensure that we would be able to fit in our clothes by the end of the week!

 

 

Dinner was always a popular event, with a throng of travellers eagerly awaiting the nightly dinner call… exploring Alaska takes a lot of energy that needs to be replenished! Inside the dining room the seating is open, meaning you can choose to sit with friends, or mingle about and join others on their tables. It’s always great to sit with some different folks for dinner, you’ll find that you end up meeting many fascinating people who have interesting stories to tell.

The dining is by no means Michelin-star quality, however it is plentiful, hearty, and fresh. Lindblad Expeditions also pride themselves on their sustainable food program, meaning that all produce used on board must me sustainably produced and farmed.

 

The Expedition Team

Lindblad Expeditions are noted for their expedition teams, and we couldn’t fault ours. Made up of three Guest Lecturers, along with Expedition Leader Linda, and a photographer/videographer, the expedition team ensured our experience in Alaska exceeded our expectations. The expedition team know this part of the world like the back of their hands. They knew where we were likely to see brown bears, the best places for walks and had a wealth of knowledge that was simply incredible and a joy to listen to. On most trips a native Tlingit interpreter joins the ship for a day to share some local tales and secrets.

 

 

Our Verdict

Tony and I loved our time aboard Sea Bird, and Alaska certainly surpassed our expectations. For us, no one “does” Alaska better than Lindblad Expeditions, and in a large part these plaudits are due to their exceptional expedition teams, certainly ours was the best we’ve ever travelled with. We'd certainly recommend this cruise - or the similar itineraries aboard the modern National Geographic Venture & Quest - to all who are wanting to experience Alaska.

This expedition departs during the northern summer, between May and August each year. For more details and upcoming departures click here or telephone us for further information and bookings.

 

 

 

 

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PLEASE NOTE: Caledonian Sky's Fiji cruising programme ceased operation in October 2024.

 

Details: 7-night Southern Lau Fiji expedition cruise, 22 June 2024 departure.  

 

If you're dreaming of an exotic getaway to Fiji's pristine islands, the 7-night Southern Lau islands expedition cruise aboard the luxurious MS Caledonian Sky is a perfect choice. Recently, I had the opportunity to embark on this unique voyage, and I'm excited to share my comprehensive review. From the ship's facilities to the exceptional service, here's everything you need to know before booking your trip. Remember, time is of the essence as Captain Cook Cruises will be ending these expeditions in November 2024. This particular itinerary will only depart again on 20th July, 14th September and 12 October 2024. 

 

MS Caledonian Sky: Ship Facilities and Accommodation Review

The MS Caledonian Sky exceeded my expectations with its five guest-accessible decks, all outside-facing suites, two dining areas (one indoor and one alfresco), two lounges with bars, and a sun deck. The cabins were spacious, featuring comfortable beds, an elegant dressing table, a desk, a television, a walk-in wardrobe, and en-suite bathroom. Our room had a beautiful balcony also, and we often kept the door open to hear the sounds of the ocean as we slept. The power outlets were American so bring an adapter to be able to charge your items, there were also 4 USB outlets beside the bed.

The ship is designed with ornate timber panels and brass accents giving an ‘old money’ charm. The common areas, including the lounge, dining room, and sundeck, had ample space for relaxation and socializing, however we only had about 60 fellow passengers onboard when capacity is 114, so I think it could get a tad crowded with that many travellers. There were some spaces of the ship that I didn’t explore – the Gym, the Medical Clinic, and the Spa (Massage room) – although I did hear glowing reviews from fellow passengers who had taken up the offer of a complimentary 10-minute foot massage. The ship also features a lift – which was especially useful when you left your life jacket in your room and didn’t fancy rushing up and down the stairs again!  

 

 

 

 

Boarding the Zodiacs

Which brings me to the next section – the logistics behind boarding the zodiacs. Guests all would meet in the Caledonian lounge equipped with any equipment (towel, snorkel gear, dry bag etc) and your red tender lifejacket! We would then make our way down in groups of 10 to board the zodiacs. The deck staff made this process as smooth as physically possible – taking your belongings onto the tender before grabbing both your arms and stepping you across to the zodiac. For those a tad more wobbly on their feet, this process was daunting – and I did speak to an elderly woman who didn’t attempt to board a tender for the duration of the trip. Some other passengers also mentioned to me that the bumpy tender ride isn’t “comfortable on old bones”. I recommend anyone with concerns to speak with the Expedition Leader and also try to sit closest to the back of the tender near the driver for the least bumpy ride (also is a bit drier down the back too!). My other recommendation is bring a waterproof bag! The company supplied a drybag large enough for a phone and other nicknacks, however, a waterproof bag would have been handy for anything larger (eg Drone, clothing, towel etc). A backpack is also handy for stepping on and off the tender keeping your arms free.    

 

 

 

 

Shore Excursions and Activities

The all-inclusive shore excursions were thoughtfully curated to provide a mix of underwater, culture, and relaxation. Each day brought new experiences, from snorkeling with Manta Rays and diving in crystal-clear waters to exploring remote villages and walking through lush rainforests. The excursions were well-organized and led by knowledgeable guides who provided insights into the Fijian culture and environment. Highlights included a relaxing beach visit and scenic cruise in Fulaga, swimming with Manta Rays in Buliya, and a visit to a local school on Totoya Island.

The day sheet with activities is left on your bed each evening for the following day. I recommend you take the time to read EVERYTHING on that day sheet because many guests missed out on the 7:30am Manta Ray swim. The early morning activities generally don’t have an announcement over the PA (for those who want to sleep in past 7am). Also if you are someone like me who suffers from FOMO (Fear of missing out), just put your name down for everything! Most of the time everyone is the same and wants to do it all too. You have the opportunity to write your name down for the activities the night before, which helps the expedition team know how many zodiacs to prepare for the day. 

My other piece of advice is to pack your day pack in preparation for everything. Many days there were swimming opportunities and you might have only packed for walking around the village, or there’s a beach visit straight after a snorkel so you haven’t packed your camera gear. So just bring it all, again in a waterproof back pack to be safe! 

One thing I regret not doing is a scuba dive, particularly the shark dive at Beqa. So if you are a scuba diver, build a relationship with the onboard dive team. The dive team are an external operator and therefore there is an additional cost. You do need to make sure you introduce yourself to the dive team and let them know what you are interested in doing, and then make sure you go see the dive team again during breakfast time on the day you want to dive. I hesitated at scuba diving due to the additional cost, and mainly because I didn’t want to miss out on the activity everyone else was doing – but from speaking with the others who went scuba diving the marine life they encountered, and the expert guidance was incredible. I probably would have chosen to dive instead of snorkel at Totoya and Matuku as well as Beqa. 

 

 

 

 

Culinary Experience: Food & Beverage Review

The food onboard was delicious, with a variety of options. Breakfast and lunch buffets were usually held in the alfresco dining area – bring your hat and sunnies! The dinners were a three-course al la carte table service. Alcohol was included at meal services which was lovely. As someone who isn't typically a foodie, I enjoyed the meals, but certain aspects could be enhanced to make the food and beverage more satisfying. The Fijian feast dinner night was a highlight, allowing guests to sample traditional dishes in a festive atmosphere.

 

Customer Service and Crew

The Fijian crew aboard the MS Caledonian Sky were phenomenal. Their warmth, friendliness, and dedication to service were truly remarkable. From the long hours they worked to their infectious cheerfulness, the crew made the trip special. Many guests, were repeat customers who had sailed with Captain Cook Cruises before, which is a testament to the service provided.

 

 

 

 

Entertainment and Onboard Activities

In addition to the shore excursions, the cruise offered a variety of onboard activities and entertainment options. Daily briefings provided information about the destinations and activities planned for the day. There were also lectures on Fijian culture and marine life, which added an educational aspect to the journey. In the evenings, guests enjoyed live music, movie nights, and themed parties, creating a lively and enjoyable atmosphere onboard.

 

Conclusion: A Must-Experience Journey

The 7-night Fiji expedition cruise aboard MS Caledonian Sky with Captain Cook Cruises was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The combination of luxurious accommodations, exceptional dining, immersive shore excursions, and outstanding service made this trip unforgettable. However, with the ship's lease ending in October 2024, there's limited time left to embark on this extraordinary adventure. Don’t miss your chance to explore the Southern Lau islands in this unique and luxurious way.

 

For more daily updates and highlights from my trip, check out our Instagram @expeditioncruisespecialists. Vinaka vakalevu, and happy travels!

 

Dianne Swain travelled with Captain Cook Cruises Fiji on the 22nd June 2024 cruise departure. You can follow more of Dianne's adventures at www.sirenandseafarer.com or on Instagram @sirenandseafarer.

 

 

 

 

To book your Aranui 5 French Polynesia cruise contact Expedition Cruise Specialists today on 1800 90 20 80 (+61 7 4041 2101 from outside Australia).

 

Find out more about Aranui 5

 

See the Marquesas Islands Itinerary

 

Aranui 5 Cruise Review

 

Marilyn & Bob from Queensland, Australia travelled on Aranui 5’s 12-day Marquesas Islands Cruise in June 2023.

 

Aranui 5, is the cruise ship with a difference. Actually, it has more than one difference. Firstly, it is small, no more than 250 travellers. Secondly, it also carries cargo as well as passengers. Thirdly, it goes to islands that few other ships visit. Fourthly, it has what must be the happiest crew to be found on any ship afloat.

Aranui 5 takes its cargo and passengers to various islands in French Polynesia. Our 12-day Marquesas islands cruise took us to Rangiroa and Makatea, which are part of the Tuamotus and then on to six of the Marquesan Islands: Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Hiva Oa, Tahuata and Fatu Hiva. We will start with the first and last islands we visited, Rangiroa and Makatea. You could not get a greater contrast in two islands that are only 30 kilometres apart. Rangiroa is the world’s second largest atoll, just a string of small islands (motus) strung around a lagoon. This lagoon is so large in fact that I did not realise we were in one. The islands on the far side are out of sight. The one that the ship stopped at was typical of atoll islands; low, only a few metres above sea level and narrow. It was only a short walk from the lagoon to the ocean.

And now the contrasting Makatea, an ex-phosphate mining island with the reef around it only extending a few metres from the shore. The bottom drops away so sharply that ships cannot anchor there. Aranui 5 drifted gently offshore with the skipper keeping it in more or less in the same place with gentle touches to the throttles and bow thrusters. Where we landed there is only a narrow stretch of flat land. Next comes the cliffs. For most of the island these rise around 200 metres, straight up. Makatea looks quite well covered from the water but I thought it would be less so when we progressed inland. This wasn’t the case and our walk across the island, just over four kilometres, was in shade most of the way. The excursion offered the choice for passengers to walk across and back, walk across and get a ride back or go over and back in a car.

 

 

 

 

Next stop the Marquesas Islands. High, rugged and spectacular, the only variation is in the amount of green coverage.

First up, Nuku Hiva, the island which has the main town of the group. Compared with some of our later ports this was a very easy job for the skipper to bring Aranui 5 alongside the wharf. Once we loaded into a fleet of (mostly) Toyota four door utes, with extra seating in the back for another four, our convoy set off, up and down and around the island. When we were not weaving up hairpin bends, we were weaving down.  

Not to be missed on this island is the archaeological site Kamuihei, where there is a giant banyan tree with a stage below. It is where a Marquesan group performed for us, and what a performance. It is not to be missed. Lunch was typical island fare of pork, goat, chicken, fish with salads and breadfruit. This was a worthwhile excursion, as long as you are not prone to car sickness.

 

 

 

 

On to the island of Ua Pou. Impress your friends by giving this island’s name the correct pronunciation. It is called "Wapoh”. Once docked, it was all action stations for the cargo handling crew. Two small and two large forklifts were lowered to the dock and then the cargo was craned off. Numerous containers and various bits and pieces were taken ashore. Plenty of locals gathered on the dock to collect their goods. We found it very easy to just sit and watch the activity.  

But we couldn’t sit for too long as there was walking to be done. First it was up to the cross for a good view over the village and the bay. Then down in the bay, where young school children were getting lessons on paddling the outrigger canoes.  Later in the day, when school was over, a bunch of older kids came down to the dock to swim. The ship had three hawsers (thick ropes) leading from the stern to the same bollard. This gave the kids a wonderful opportunity for some fun. They would walk out on one line while hanging on to another for support. And then fall in. As I have observed on other islands, the children are lousy swimmers but are drown proof. It was good to see that the Aranui skipper was quite happy to let the kids have a lot of fun with these mooring lines.  

 

 

 

             

Next stop, Ua Huka. Definitely only a daylight manoeuvre to moor in the bay here. Two cargo barges were lowered into the water, one on either side, with the ship’s stern mooring lines on them. These barges then headed to the shore, allowing a crew member from each barge to leap ashore with the mooring lines to drop the loop over the bollard before jumping back on the barge. Not an easy task. The ship was now anchored securely in the middle of the bay. After watching a car being delivered ashore by barge it was time for the day’s activities. Into the 4WD utes for a drive to an arboretum (small botanic garden). Here we were introduced to some of the local trees and fruits. From there we were driven to a cultural museum and also a small sea museum. The latter I found very interesting. Then lunch and walk/drive back to the ship.   

 

 

 

 

After Ua Huka we went to the Island of Hiva Oa. The day’s main activity was a visit to a cemetery, getting there either by bus or foot. Here we could see the graves of both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel. Then, back to the ship for lunch and a lazy afternoon. Anyone wanting to go to the village could catch the bus. We chose to go for a short walk near the dock and then watch the cargo handling. Nowhere near as uninteresting as it sounds. Next day an early start while the ship rounded the eastern most point of the island and anchored off Puamau. Anyone wanting to go could load into the 4WDs again and be taken to an archaeological site called Te I’lpona. This has been very well restored in a beautiful setting. Definitely worth the visit.  

 

 

 

 

That afternoon we cruised down from Hiva Oa to Tahuata and dropped the anchor in a large bay. Into the barges once again for a visit to the village of Vaitahu and the catholic church.

Our next stop was Fatu Hiva, where we anchored in the bay off the village of Omoa. This was a day for the energetic. Those who wished to do so could walk from this village over the hills to Hanavave – a hike of some 15 kilometres. Around the half way point a picnic lunch was waiting for them. While they were walking there, the ship upped anchor and motored to Hanavave. While the ship’s literature put this down as a difficult walk, the general consensus was that it was not all that difficult, the weather was on the walker’s side as it was overcast.  

Our final stop of this memorable journey was Makatea. After a busy day exploring, we motored away from the island at about 5:00 PM, heading for Papeete. Tonight was our last dinner on board, and it came with an unexpected and wonderful surprise. The dining room doors opened, and we walked in to be greeted by the kitchen and dining room staff, lined up on either side clapping us in and singing. This delightful gesture was just so Aranui. A fantastic finish to a great 12 days.

 

 

 

 

The Nitty Gritty

 

We learned a few things on this voyage that could be useful to other people considering this cruise.

When making the arrangements we were told that we could deposit our luggage at the dock at 9:30 AM but we could not board until 12 noon. When we dropped off our bags at about 10:30 AM, we were told we could board immediately.

Obviously, we knew we could select the type of cabin that we wanted and then, almost at the last minute, we found we could also select the deck that we wanted. If you book a cabin with a balcony we would suggest choosing the starboard side if available. The ship berths on the starboard side and passengers going ashore when anchored out also load into the barges on this side.

 

 

 

 

The captain and the other officers usually eat with the rest of the crew but if they are invited to dine with travellers they are happy to do so. Four of us made the invite and the skipper, 1st and 2nd officers and the chief engineer all dined with us. They were really nice people and we had an enjoyable evening with them talking about how the ship works, their families and life in general.

For travellers who like going hiking there are some organised hikes varying in length from four to 15 kilometres. On most islands there is a cross up on a hill which generally has a dirt road or track up to it. These lookouts typically provide wonderful views of the bay and the island.

Be warned if you want to purchase and bring handicrafts home to Australia you need to do your research as most are made of wood, seeds and tapa and may result in some questions from customs and quarantine!

 

Our Aranui 5 Cabin

Our cabin aboard Aranui 5 was a Superior Deluxe cabin, #8405, located on the starboard side of the ship. The most outstanding feature of our cabin was how soundproof it was. We were so surprised there was not even any noise when other people flushed their toilet. The only time we could hear voices was if we had our door to the balcony open and even then they were not loud. The cabin was much roomier than we thought it would be and with the extra space on the balcony it was very comfortable. There was more than ample space for our clothes, suitcases and bits and pieces. The en suite was also larger than anticipated and was well supplied with soap, shampoo and conditioner.

 

 

 

 

Dining Aboard Aranui 5

On our trip we were amazed at the sweets, they were exceptionally presented and the Captain shed light on this, telling us that there was an expert on board teaching their staff about desserts and presentation. How lucky were we. Fruit is always available at breakfast but if you want more it is hard to get on the islands. There is a bounty of handicrafts to buy but very little fruit, although there is plenty growing. We managed to get some occasionally.

Tahitian Poisson Cru, or ia ota in Tahitian, is the national dish and there was a demonstration on board on how to make it and a tasting after. This was the best “raw fish” dish we tasted. It was available in various iterations every time we went to restaurants on Islands for lunch. 

Unless you are a very big eater, food was plentiful with three courses for lunch and dinner and a buffet for breakfast. The food was predominantly French with some pasta and local fare. 

The three course lunches and dinners were really good. Everyone received the same entrée, main and sweets, there was no choice but this was fine as long as you were not a particularly fussy eater. The food was varied and very nice, we never heard anyone complain about it. Travellers with special dietary needs were catered for. The wines were all French – reds and whites. They did somewhat match wines with the meal, ie whites with fish, but we were able to change this if we wanted reds. There was one bottle shared between four travellers each meal, and after that bottle was finished you had to pay for more. I was lucky because Bob does not drink wine, so I only had to share with three people!  

There were tables for two, four, six or eight people and I think the tables could be adjusted to larger groups. It wasn’t necessary to reserve a table, you sat where you wanted to. We occasionally arrived later for dinner and so chose to sit with a French couple. As we don’t have any French language skills it was up to them to test their English, which they did and were most gracious as their English was not that good. 

 

 

 

 

Dress Code aboard Aranui 5

Dress was casual at all times on the ship. Aranui 5’s cabins are air-conditioned with little or minimal adjustment, so if you feel the cold then you need to take this in to account. In the bar, dining room and all other inside areas of the ship are air conditioned, so once again dress according to your needs. For excursions on shore, long skirts are not a good idea because of getting in and out of the barges and the utes that go to various places. Of course, when walking light clothes are a good idea. We did not have any trouble with flies, mosquitoes, sand flies etc.

Medical Team

There was a Doctor and Nurse who not only attended to people on the ship but came along on all excursions with their very big medical kit container. One of them always went on the hikes, we were most impressed.

Aranui 5 Pool

The ship’s pool was small, which is to be expected, and people did not go in it when the ship was moving as the water sloshed about. It had good stairs to accommodate older people. 

 

Our Verdict

 

It was a fantastic cruise, we really enjoyed it and would recommend other people to seriously consider doing this trip. Aranui 5 is an excellent ship going to out-of-the-way but worthwhile places to visit. The other group that contributed to us having a good time were the other passengers. They were a diverse group, from different countries and backgrounds. People were very friendly and we made some good friends who we will keep in contact with.

 

 

Marilyn & Bob (above with Wenda from Aranui Cruises) travelled on Aranui 5’s 12-day Marquesas Islands cruise in June 2023. 

Some photography in this review has been provided by Marilyn & Bob, other images have been sourced from Aranui Cruises. Images may not be reproduced without consent from the photographers.

 

Cruising the Kimberley is a one-in-a-lifetime experience that deserves a place on everyone’s bucket list. The majestic wilderness destination, located in Western Australia’s far north, is filled with dramatic gorges, remote islands and stunning rivers that are best explored by boat.

We were introduced to the region’s magic in May 2021 and our happy memories of the trip will linger with us for many years to come - we’re already dreaming about making a return visit.

The first thing to consider when organising a Kimberley cruise is to choose the boat that best suits your needs. We were fortunate to have Andrew Castles at Expedition Cruise Specialists to guide us. He discussed our expectations and fitness levels, then advised us to choose a smaller vessel – the Reef Prince.

The Reef Prince was given a multi-million dollar refurbishment in 2019 and offers great value in a relaxed, stylish setting. It features a spacious dining and living room, plus a selection of shaded outdoor spots to admire the spectacular views.

 

 

As the Reef Prince only takes 36 passengers – in 18 cabins, all with en suites - and is a compact 38- metre low-draught catamaran, it can visit destinations that are challenging or impossible for larger ships to navigate. It also offers more opportunities to disembark and explore on land.

However, a small ship may not be the ideal option for anyone who isn’t relatively fit and adventurous, as there is some climbing involved to visit the more interesting Indigenous art sites and waterholes. Fortunately, we were both eager and able to take part in all activities on offer.

The energetic crew played a major role in our enjoyment of the trip. They included a chef who’d worked at a hatted restaurant, a daredevil first mate, a laconic captain and one of the best Kimberley tour guides in the business. Everyone on staff was incredibly helpful and passionate about their work.

As for the cruise itself, it was magical, from waking up to the most incredible sunrises at sea to sipping sparkling wine under the stars at night.

It’s tough to choose, but here are our top six cruise highlights:

 

1. King George Falls

While many Kimberley cruise boats are too large to cross the sandbar at the mouth of the King George River, the Reef Prince can slip over and glide down to the famed King George Falls. The journey is every bit as spectacular as the destination, with dramatic ochre cliffs towering over the boat on each side. Our first glimpse of the double set of falls as they tumbled down the cliffside into the 60-metre-deep water below took our breath away. Other unforgettable moments came as we sat on the bow of a tender with the falls cascading onto our heads and our seafood lunch with a front row view of the falls.

 

 

2. King’s Cascade

Cruising along Prince Regent River to King’s Cascade was another amazing waterfall moment. We arrived in the late afternoon and climbed up the waterfall to swim in a waterhole at the top. It was breathtaking to watch the sunset on the rocks above the waterfall, gazing out over the stunning Prince Regent National Park as the sky streaked with pink and gold rays.

3. Montgomery Reef

Montgomery Reef has been described by David Attenborough as the eighth natural wonder of the world, due to the rapidly falling tide that creates a series of streams and mini-waterfalls off the reef. We explored the reef in tenders, as turtles popped their heads out of the water every few seconds and small sharks and manta rays darted around us. Afterwards, we motored to a sand “island” that had emerged near the reef during the low tide and wandered along its virgin shores.

4. Fishing

We hadn’t expected fishing to be a trip highlight, as we’d never tried it before, but it was a surprise winner for us, both as spectators and participants. The Reef Prince crew regularly took passengers on fishing trips and it was wonderful to eat our fresh catches at lunches and dinners. The boat also has two fishing chairs at the rear, where the passengers gathered on our last day at sea to shout encouragement and cheer as bonito tuna and golden trevally were reeled on board. Eating the tuna as sashimi an hour later was a delicious treat.

 

 

5. Dinner under the stars

The crew surprised passengers on the last night of our cruise by arranging tables on the prow of the boat for a dinner under the stars. We anchored at North Perron Island and long tables were draped in white tablecloths and decorated with shells and candles. We sipped pre-dinner cocktails and watched the glorious sunset before eating slow-cooked pork shoulder and asparagus pasta with lemon posset for dessert. As darkness fell, we gazed in awe at the Milky Way, which shone clear and bright above us.

6. Wildlife

A large part of the enjoyment of the cruise was spotting the native animals – wallabies hopping on rocky cliffs, sea eagles soaring majestically, tawny nurse sharks cruising behind the boat, flying fish scooting along the surface of the water and crocodiles sunbaking or emerging from the water. Our personal favourite moment was watching three brolgas majestically take flight from a sandy beach.

However, every day was different and included unforgettable moments, from exploring a crystal-scattered beach on a remote island to boating at high speed through Horizontal Falls to peering through the windows of a crashed World War II plane to sipping a beer while cooling off in a waterhole. 

 

 

 

 

We loved the opportunity to grow our photography skills aboard the Reef Prince and got some great tips from our cruise director, who offered lessons to interested passengers. Visiting numerous Indigenous sites also introduced us to the fascinating history of Aboriginal art and inspired us to buy several artworks to enjoy on our walls at home.

Our Kimberley cruise on the Reef Prince was one of the most relaxing holidays we’ve ever had. There is no mobile phone reception on the cruise and we chose not to pay for wifi. It was blissful to disconnect from the modern world for 10 days. We spent many peaceful hours sitting on deck, watching the amazing scenery slide past, nibbling on cheese and crackers when the Captain announced afternoon tea was served, reading books and chatting to our fellow passengers.

Months later we are still in contact with the new friends we made aboard the Reef Prince. We regularly reminisce about how lucky we were to share the holiday of a lifetime together.

 

Alana House & David Fuller write about their adventures at www.thethirstytravellers.com

 

 

Alana and David joined the Reef Prince's 10-night Kimberley cruise from Broome to Darwin in June 2021. To secure one of the last remaining cabins for 20223 - or book for 2024 - please call the expert team at Expedition Cruise Specialists today on 1800 90 20 80 or visit https://www.expeditioncruisespecialists.com/ships/reef-prince.