Small is big in Australia’s Kimberley
With such a wide choice of ships for your Kimberley cruise, how do you know what is best for you?
Once upon a time, Western Australia’s Kimberley was a well-kept secret among local boaties looking for great Barramundi fishing, geologists studying some of the oldest rocks on Earth and ardent archaeologists in search of the most ancient civilisations.
The Kimberley is still something of a secret, although no longer a very well-kept one.
Located in the far Northwest corner of Australia, it covers an area almost twice the size of Victoria and easily larger than Germany or the British Isles. Despite its immense area, it is one of the least populated regions on our planet. It has some of the greatest tidal ranges anywhere - up to 12 metres - and frequently receives more than a metre and a half of rain every year.
All these features combine to make it one of the last truly pristine places on Earth and a modern eco-tourism hotspot, drawing thousands of nature-loving travellers to gaze in awe at the staggering geological features, spot mighty saltwater crocodiles and witness impossibly cute rock wallabies.
While many visitors to Australia’s North West will take to the dusty roads winding past giant boab trees and through dry, rocky riverbeds, an increasing number will board one of the increasing number of vessels navigating the labyrinthine shores between Broome and Darwin.
Up until a few years ago, these were smaller, boutique cruisers and yacht-style vessels accommodating typically less than 50 passengers keen to combine their sightseeing with some fishing and perhaps a hike to a freshwater swimming hole. Now the fleet includes lavish 200-passenger pocket cruise ships boasting fine dining, free-flowing champagne and luxurious balcony suites serviced by waistcoated butlers.
Choices, choices.
Now let’s imagine you have chosen to cruise in the Kimberley. Given that the prices are not particularly different for small or large ships, it often gets down to the expedition delivery and itinerary devised by the various operators.
If you are a seasoned ‘white ship’ cruiser accustomed to the niceties of the really big ships, then the small (micro) cruise option may be a bit of a jolt. Cabins are smaller and private balconies are rare. Dining, while still excellent quality, is often communal and alcohol choices may be limited.
The big, 100-200 berth ships are mostly foreign-flagged. Apart from Cairns-based, Australian-owned Coral Expeditions, whose biggest Australian-flagged vessels Coral Adventurer and Coral Geographer carry 120 guests, the likes of Ponant, Seabourn, Heritage Expeditions and Silversea all carry foreign flags.
So what’s the big deal? Under Australian maritime law, foreign ships are not allowed to sail directly between mainland ports, so they must detour to an international port. A compromise of sorts has been reached with these vessels whereby they now transit via Ashmore Reef, which adds extra 'time at sea' compared to the Australian operators such as Coral Expeditions who can maximise their time closer to the coast.
Furthermore, the big vessels typically run a well-rehearsed 10-night ‘highlights’ itinerary between Broome and Darwin that takes in the most prominent Kimberley icons like Montgomery Reef, Talbot Bay, Horizontal Falls, Jar Island, Porosis Creek and King George River.
But for the last 30 years or so, the Kimberley has been the domain of these tiny, boutique ships where local knowledge reigns supreme. They can, and do, linger wherever they desire taking advantage of whatever the prevailing conditions are. Two excursions every day is the norm plus there will be freshwater swimming (away from the big nasty crocs), hiking on remote beaches, visiting hidden ‘secret’ waterfalls, fishing and unmapped rock art sites.
There are no ‘down days’, so you better be ready for action as the expedition leader will often be devising the next day’s activities the night before as tides and winds are studied and reports of wildlife sightings come in from other friendly vessels. These sightings can include breaching whales, various eagles and raptors, crocodiles, rare dolphins and even the occasional dugong.
Take, for example, the powerful, 38m catamaran Reef Prince. When at capacity, it takes no more than 36 travellers sharing 18 cabins, all with private facilities. Dining is in the spacious common lounge which also serves as a bar and lecture theatre. Meals are served directly from the galley by a qualified chef to tables of 8 to 10 guests. Several times during the cruise, tables will be set up on deck under festoon lights for a delightful gourmet evening meal under a star-spangled night sky.
Days begin early as mornings are a special time in the Kimberley. as the rising sun bathes the ancient sandstone in pastel hues. The silence is only broken by the screech of a wheeling osprey or the splash of excited fish as they chase their breakfast.
Tenders are launched for the day’s activities which may be an exploration of a remote river, a fishing expedition or a transfer to a prehistoric rock art site. Local vessels prefer aluminium-hulled runabouts with powerful outboard motors, carrying about 10 guests at a time. The international vessels are equipped with rubber-hulled inflatable Zodiacs which they also use amongst the ice in polar regions. With the many submerged rocks and hidden debris in the shallow rivers, these sturdy metal boats can absorb much more punishment in this unforgiving environment.
A bird’s eye view
Furthermore, several of the smaller vessels such as Kimberley Quest, True North and Great Escape will carry their own helicopter for additional sightseeing and exploration opportunities. Iconic Mitchell Falls, as featured in such blockbuster cinematic productions as Baz Luhrmann's Australia can only be accessed by air from any ship. Sure, there are third-party operators too flying out of the Hunter River, but having your own chopper on call is pretty special and opens up so many more possibilities like overflying the otherworldly Montgomery Reef when the submarine plateau rises up like Atlantis as the massive tide falls.
Another key feature of the Kimberley that is only available to the smaller vessels is the magical Kings Cascade deep in the Prince Regent River. These naturally formed terraces come alive like vertical rapids, especially in the early season and offer one of the best photo opportunities anywhere in the Kimberley. Don’t be surprised if your skipper manoeuvres the tender under the flow for a refreshing shower of crystal-clear water.
Timing is everything
It seems every year the Kimberley cruise season expands by a few weeks. Local, small ship operators have the luxury of starting and finishing their cruise program whenever they like. A typical season is during ‘the dry’ between late March and early October with each segment of the season having its own advantages.
While early departures may strike the last of the wet season rain and its humidity, the spectacle of the waterfalls in full flow is worth every discomfort. The massive Twin Falls on the King George River are truly a wonder to behold as thousands of tonnes of water come crashing down nearly 100 metres onto the rocks below in a noise like jet engines.
Mid-season has the best overall weather with clear, sunny days, while the end of the dry around October is the best time for fishing for the prized Barramundi.
As a final piece of advice, it’s always best to consult an experienced Kimberley cruise specialist and that’s not something you’ll find at your everyday high street travel agent. Even though most Kimberley cruise choices are excellent, a specialist can fine-tune your experience and guide you to the vessel that will best fulfill your expectations. Every cruise operator will tell you they are the best, but a Kimberley Cruise Specialist will know what is the best for you.
Ready to book your Kimberley Cruise or want to find out more about the options? Contact the expert team at Expedition Cruise Specialists today on 1800 90 20 80 or fill in the form below and one of our team will call you back.